Designer duo Dolce & Gabbana have recently released a collection of abayas and hijabs set for release in the Middle East. For those who do not know, an abaya is a loose fitting, full-sleeved robe worn by Muslim women across the world, predominantly in the Middle East and North Africa. A hijab is the head scarf worn by Muslim women as a demonstration of their dedication to their faith and God in modesty. The collection is set only for release in the Middle East where the dominant religion is Islam.
This collection itself is a smart move for the company as it is the first of its kind. In the past, brands like DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger have released “Ramadaan Collections” targeting the Muslim market during their holy month. However, there was never a collection released without any apparent ties to a religious time of the year. This is also an effective business initiative as it is targeting the increase sale of luxury goods in the region with potential for growth for the company in the future.
On the other hand, business and fashion aside, the launch of this collection has created quite a bit of discussion. Many individuals, Muslims and non-Muslims alike, are questioning whether this is just an exploitation of the Muslim market. Some go as far to say that the D&G are turning the hijab into a fashion statement that belittles the struggles women wearing the hijab face everyday in the Western world.
On the other hand, business and fashion aside, the launch of this collection has created quite a bit of discussion. Many individuals, Muslims and non-Muslims alike, are questioning whether this is just an exploitation of the Muslim market. Some go as far to say that the D&G are turning the hijab into a fashion statement that belittles the struggles women wearing the hijab face everyday in the Western world.
However, I would argue that this collection represents a lot more- a step forward for Western Muslim women. Growing up as a Muslim in a Western society wasn’t easy for me, especially with my love for fashion. I love clothes and I see them as a form of self-expression.
To the people labelling it an exploitation of the Muslim market, I would argue that all forms of advertising in sales are an exploitation of a certain demographic. Whether it be an Old Spice campaign targeting men or a Dove campaign targeting women, each product is specifically designed to target an audience and cash in on profit from said audience. D&G are doing exactly that. As sales for luxury goods have rapidly increased in the Middle East, they are trying to expand on their current profits by expanding their products to a larger demographic. Like any great company, D&G has taken note of whom and where their products are being purchased.
Additionally, I do not see this as a belittlement of the hijab. D&G is not trying to turn the hijab into a fashion statement by marketing worldwide; they are specifically targeting Muslim countries where many women wear a hijab and abayas. They have in no way changed the importance or meaning of the hijab, hence why this line is not being marketed to the West but specifically the Middle East. If this collection were part of their new line that is marketed in Western societies and attempting to make the Hijab the “new trend”, then it would a form of belittlement. However, this is not the case. This is an opportunity for Muslim women to active participants in the world of high-end fashion.
To the people labelling it an exploitation of the Muslim market, I would argue that all forms of advertising in sales are an exploitation of a certain demographic. Whether it be an Old Spice campaign targeting men or a Dove campaign targeting women, each product is specifically designed to target an audience and cash in on profit from said audience. D&G are doing exactly that. As sales for luxury goods have rapidly increased in the Middle East, they are trying to expand on their current profits by expanding their products to a larger demographic. Like any great company, D&G has taken note of whom and where their products are being purchased.
Additionally, I do not see this as a belittlement of the hijab. D&G is not trying to turn the hijab into a fashion statement by marketing worldwide; they are specifically targeting Muslim countries where many women wear a hijab and abayas. They have in no way changed the importance or meaning of the hijab, hence why this line is not being marketed to the West but specifically the Middle East. If this collection were part of their new line that is marketed in Western societies and attempting to make the Hijab the “new trend”, then it would a form of belittlement. However, this is not the case. This is an opportunity for Muslim women to active participants in the world of high-end fashion.
This line is important for Muslim women such as myself, because it was quite difficult growing up in the Western world trying to maintain a more modest, less fitted and less exposing attire. I specifically remember seeing my older cousins having to layer longer shirts underneath dresses in order to still be able to wear them with their hijab to maintain modesty. I also remember my mom convincing me to wear overly peasant skirts and peasant tops (which I still detest to this day). I noticed, however, when maxi dresses and skirts became the trend instead of shorter skirts, it was quite easy to look fashionable while maintaining a certain level of modesty. Additionally, once they were a common availability in stores such as H&M, the Gap and Forever 21, more styles became available. Though these are lower end fashion lines, it does speak to the importance of catering to a more diverse market. It speaks greatly to the changes in our world to see a collection catering specifically to a group of women who are often casted aside.
It is my first time seeing a luxury fashion house releasing a collection catered to my Muslim sisters and I. I believe that it is a big stepping-stone in blending high-end fashion with a religion that is labelled the way it is, “non confirmative”. Especially today in the Western media, Muslims and Islam are often portrayed under negative light, and Muslim women especially are seen as oppressed when they wear a hijab. All the clothes designed in this collection are beautiful, fierce, and fabulous. They make a statement, and to me, really represent something progressive and positive. It is no longer placing Western Muslim women as outsiders in the world of high-end fashion but as equal participants. This creates the opportunity for these women to no longer have to choose between two passions, between their faith and fashion. With luck, I anticipate that D&G continue to expand the line, and inspire other high-end companies to reach out to their Muslim consumers.
It is my first time seeing a luxury fashion house releasing a collection catered to my Muslim sisters and I. I believe that it is a big stepping-stone in blending high-end fashion with a religion that is labelled the way it is, “non confirmative”. Especially today in the Western media, Muslims and Islam are often portrayed under negative light, and Muslim women especially are seen as oppressed when they wear a hijab. All the clothes designed in this collection are beautiful, fierce, and fabulous. They make a statement, and to me, really represent something progressive and positive. It is no longer placing Western Muslim women as outsiders in the world of high-end fashion but as equal participants. This creates the opportunity for these women to no longer have to choose between two passions, between their faith and fashion. With luck, I anticipate that D&G continue to expand the line, and inspire other high-end companies to reach out to their Muslim consumers.
Raeesah Bawa